Bear Belly Adventures

I left off my last post in Quartzsite, Arizona, so that’s where we’ll pick things up.

Quartzsite is a small desert town with a year-round population of about 2,400 people. In most contexts, it would be easy to overlook. But in the winter months, it transforms — swelling with snowbirds and visitors, sometimes reaching hundreds of thousands of people.

I’ve been here about a week now, and the weather has been nothing short of fantastic. Daytime highs are in the mid-70s with a light breeze out of the north — just enough to make it feel perfect. Nights cool down into the 40s, and mornings are still chilly enough to truly appreciate a hot cup of coffee.

Is it paradise? Not quite. It’s dusty, there’s occasional noise from distant neighbors, and prices reflect life in a small desert town. But for $180 for a Long Term Visitor Area (LTVA) pass that allows me to stay here for seven months, it’s close enough to paradise for me.

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A Little Quartzsite History

Quartzsite began as a mining and stagecoach stop in the 1800s, originally called Tyson’s Wells after a local miner. Over time, it became a crossroads for travelers and prospectors, and later a hub for gem and mineral trading — a legacy that still defines the town today. Its winter population boom is a relatively modern phenomenon, driven by RVers and snowbirds seeking warm weather and open desert living.

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Life in the LTVA

There are several LTVAs in the Yuma Field District, which manages roughly 1.2 million acres of public land. Many of these areas are designated for long-term camping, and one of the biggest benefits is choice: you can have as many neighbors — or as few — as you like.

I’m staying in La Posa South LTVA, about two miles from potable water and trash dumpsters. That proximity makes daily life much easier to plan. With near-constant sunshine, my solar setup easily keeps my house battery topped off.

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The People

I’ve met all of my immediate neighbors, and they’ve all been genuinely kind. Most are here for the season, in their 60s and 70s, clearly enjoying life.

I also met a man named Mike and his wife, who are set up closer to the entrance near the dumpsters — an odd spot at first glance. Mike had tables set up in front of his trailer, and sure enough, he was selling things.

His wife makes handmade jewelry from all sorts of materials — polished stones, arrowheads, and more. Mike makes walking sticks and other items from unique sticks, roots, and limbs he’s collected over time, much of it from Washington State.

Mike also keeps a close eye on the dumpsters. As he put it, “The desert is the only place you can show up with nothing and survive.” He’s found complete tents, working generators, art, serviceable gray-water tanks, and countless other items. He cleans them up, repairs them, and resells them at reasonable prices — always open to bartering.

That’s the kind of desert life I imagined.

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Settling In

Since arriving, I’ve set up a local mailbox for package deliveries. While I still use Escapees Mail Service as my permanent address, having something local makes life easier here. I’ve also found a groomer for Nana — a husband-and-wife team running their business out of a converted RV. There’s even a surprisingly nice dog park in town with lush green grass, which Nana has thoroughly enjoyed.

Shopping here is its own experience. During the winter, new shops seem to appear overnight. Tyson Wells hosts the Big Tent Show and countless vendors, selling just about anything you can imagine. There’s a fantastic scratch-and-dent grocery store with unbelievable prices on dry and canned goods. Hardware stores, food trucks, craft vendors, and flea-market-style setups pop up constantly.

If more traditional shopping is needed, Parker is about 40 minutes away and has a Walmart.

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The Magic Circle

There’s a great walking trail around an area called the Magic Circle, about half a mile from where I’m camped. The full outer loop is roughly four miles and winds through desert washes with surprisingly lush vegetation.

Along the way are areas of what I call “desert art” — patterns made from natural white quartz stones, some large enough to be visible on Google Maps satellite view. One such piece is called the Magic Circle Labyrinth, which I initially assumed explained the area’s name.

On my first walk around the loop, I learned otherwise.

A man walking his dog approached from the opposite direction. As he got closer, I noticed that his dog’s tail was not the only thing wagging. He was completely naked.

As a nurse, nakedness doesn’t bother me, so we exchanged greetings and went on our way. But I soon noticed he wasn’t alone — I noticed more unclothed people near trailers and RVs along the route. Curious, I asked around and learned that the Magic Circle is a legal clothing-optional area within La Posa South, covering about 450 acres and marked by red posts.

The trail largely follows the outer boundary. It turns out there’s even an organized clothing optional group that maintains the area and trail, complete with a community tent for events.

I still walk the trail. It’s too nice not to. I’ve just chosen the clothing-on option so far.

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First Impressions

My first week in Quartzsite has been excellent. If I had to complain about anything, it would be the dust — it gets everywhere. There are ways to mitigate it, and honestly, it’s a fair trade-off.

It beats negative-zero temperatures and snow any day of the week.